In 1969, Atlanta chose the phoenix, the mythical bird who rose from the ashes, as its own symbol of rebirth after a long road back from Civil War construction, civil rights turmoil and as a leader of a progressive voice of the new south. Chattanooga could make a strong argument for its use of the symbol in their coat of arms as well. In that same year of 1969, legendary newscaster, Walter Cronkite, infamously maligned Chattanooga as "America's dirtiest city," reporting on its level of pollution. But since then Chattanooga, too, has risen from its own ashes and soot, transforming itself one of the cleanest, hippest and most effervescent tourism destinations in the country. An unusual blend of rich history, smart urban planning and a fountain of youthful exuberance emanating from 12 nearby college campuses make Chattanooga one of the great comeback stories of the south.
Old Is New Again
Like many cities, Chattanooga struggles with preservation versus progress; vacillating between historic landmarks steeped in tradition and a progressive spirit looking to modernize while maintaining the integrity of its identity. When welded together, the yin/yang effect of public and private collaboration working towards a joint vision produces splendid outcomes.
In a splendid reboot, Warehouse Row, a former Civil War-era fort, has survived the wrecking ball and transformed into an upscale hipster shopping mall on steroids (or at least the all-natural, locally-sourced equivalent). Fun and funky fashion boutiques, bric-a-brac shops and original restaurants lovingly inhabit the old space, each with a distinct and local feel. Garden and Gun and Southern Living can't help but drool over this gem, for indeed, this should be a primer for southern preservation and urban renewal.
But perhaps the most startling contrast of old-meets-new sits 80-feet above on banks of the Tennessee River: the Hunter Museum of American Art which houses an impressive collection of American art. Sitting side by side, like an architectural Queen Elizabeth and Sid Vicious, are the museum’s two structures—one, a traditional Victorian mansion replete with stately 20-foot white columns and the other, a Frank Gehry-esque modern glass and steel sexy beast—the two could not possibly contrast each other anymore. Yet somehow it works, as many of the old and new integrations in Chattanooga.
Natural Attraction
Chattanooga proudly promotes its unique natural resources both indigenous and transplanted. Underwater, underground and up over it all, there are quite a few ways to enjoy the city’s unique gifts.
Since it's opening in 1992, The Tennessee Aquarium continues to be regarded (even by many Atlantans), as the gold standard of indoor aquatic habitats. Side-by-side buildings offer separate exhibits--"salted" or "unsalted." One, a multi-level freshwater odyssey with 100-pound catfish, prehistoric sturgeon and American alligators; the other, an oceanic odyssey with sharks, tidal pool "petting zoos" and chilly little (adorable) penguins.
A few minutes drive from downtown looms Lookout Mountain, famous for a Civil War battle and an unusual array of activities. The Incline Railway putters up 72.5 degrees up the side of the hill and deposits you atop the mountain. From there it's a short walk to Point Park, where a Civil War monument and canons "point" over downtown. On the other side of the mountain, Rock City connects granite-lined "streets" and corridors, suspended bridges and narrow passages to culminate at “Lover’s Leap,” a dramatic precipice from which on a clear day you can gaze upon seven states. Down the mountain, you enter a shaft and descend 26 stories into the stone to begin your Ruby Falls experience. Deep inside, navigate the narrow passageway meanders to the tallest and deepest underground waterfall open to the public. A multi-colored light show illuminates the 14-story indoor downpour while a piped-in, soaring score provides an inspiring backdrop.
Chattanooga Choo Chew
Chattanooga also brings an unexpected indie spirit to its dining scene with a refreshing eschewing of soulless chains. Steps from the aquarium, The Blue Water Grille, keeps the aquatic theme swimming along with top-notch fresh seafood from Florida. Blue Plate sounds like a greasy spoon but does the blue collar thing with panache and style, reinterpreting comfort food staples with zest and originality. Down the street from Warehouse Row, Urban Stack Burger Lounge dishes out "killer burgers and manly drinks" from a nifty LEED Green certified retrofitting of the Southern Railways baggage dating back to 1867. And across the river lies Aretha Frankenstein’s, perhaps the most eclectic, creative and delicious breakfast fare coast-to-coast. Their pancakes are so decadent that other restaurants in town buy the mix and serve it to their own customers! And everything is "small city" priced--get ready for a double take (in a good way) when the check arrives.
If You Go
Just a 2-hour drive north on I-75, Chattanooga is all about tourism. Pound for pound this is one of the most organized, travel-friendly places in the south.
www.chattanoogafun.com or (800) 322-3344 is a great place to start.
The Chattanoogan is Chattanooga's only AAA Four Diamond hotel, with plush accommodations, an indoor pool, and three restaurants. www.chattanooganhotel.com
The Tennessee Aquarium general admission prices are $24.95/adult and $14.50/child (free for ages 3 and under) at the Aquarium’s Ticketing Center and online at www.tnaqua.org.
Save a few bucks with a Lookout Mountain triple play combo which gets you into Rock City, Ruby Falls, and the Incline Railway. Available at any of the three sites: www.ridetheincline.com, www.seerockcity.com and www.rubyfalls.com. All three attractions are very close on the mountain and easy to do in a little more than half a day.
4 Bridges Arts Festival, a southern arts fair at the First Tennessee Pavilion will be held April 14th and 15th.