Chattanooga Chow Chow

Exactly 50 years ago the EPA declared—and Walter Cronkite famously reported on the CBS Evening News—that the city of Chattanooga had claimed the mantle as “the dirtiest city in the United States.” Reports of cars running headlights day and night due to the factory-generated soot and smog painted a bleak picture of a town once known as the inspiration for the wholesome WWII-era song, “Chattanooga Choo Choo.”

But what a comeback story Chattanooga has become! Transforming itself one of the cleanest, hippest and most effervescent tourism destinations in the country, Chattanooga blends its rich history, a gorgeous landscape, smart urban planning and a fountain of artistic youthful exuberance to once again reign as a darling of the south. And do you hear that? That buzz you hear coming from up I-75 is the sound of Chattanooga’s burgeoning food scene, a breeding ground for young chefs with the talent and freedom to execute top-quality creative concepts. Here are a few of places to “chow chow” right now:

Slurp up ramen noodles along with many other Japanese delights at Two Ten Jack located in the Warehouse Row development at the site of the Civil War-era Old Stone Fort. Descend into the building’s basement and find a cozy Far East motif that extends into the building’s multi-story atrium with long communal tables. This izakaya (a Japanese neighborhood pub) also dishes yakitori (skewered & grilled items), sushi and other Japanese-inspired comfort food sourced from local purveyors. The lively atmosphere is further fueled by the beverage program which includes local craft and Japanese beers, cocktails-on-tap, sake and Japanese whiskey.

Gourmet burgers are the name of the game at Urban Stack, a gastropub operating out of one of the city’s oldest buildings, the former baggage room for the Alabama & Chattanooga Railroad lines built in 1870.  Order up one of more than 20 different types of burgers including several “Urban Classics,” hormone-free beef burgers enhanced by everything from bacon and eggs to pastrami to chorizo. Or, if red meat is not your thing, try a “Specialty Stack” built on an alt-beef base like hot fried chicken, lamb or a vegan mushroom patty.

Located steps from the iconic Walnut Street Bridge in the ground floor of the new Edwin Hotel, White Bird ruffles culinary feathers with an upscale homage to from the Tennessee River Valley and the surrounding region. With views of the Tennessee River, the bright, modern aesthetic of the dining room pairs well with the restaurant’s locally-sourced, seasonal menus.  These rustic dishes are impressively cheffed-up, coming across as sophisticated yet down-homey: rabbit and dumplings, pulled and pressed pork and a whole chicken lacquered in honey and tea with mushroom fricassee are a few of the creative spins on Appalachian classics. For dessert, the “Moonpie of Sorts”, a reimagined version of the original confection Chattanooga made famous, is a must.  

Take a walk across the Tennessee River on one of the city’s bridges to the North Shore and arrive in the land of Milk & Honey.  This happening casual café serves sweet and savory gourmet breakfast and lunch items all day, every day from 6:30am-10pm. Nosh on breakfast treats like Kentucky-based Shuckman’s smoked salmon on a bagel, farmhouse biscuits with Benton’s bacon, buttermilk waffles, sourdough French toast and of course, espressos and coffee, including the super-smooth Milk & Honey Latte sweetened with fresh milk and local honey. For your sweet tooth grab-and-go a fresh-baked pastry, a scoop of their homemade gelato or a frozen paleta, a Latin-style fresh fruit popsicle.

Award-winning architecture is just part of the quirky allure of Flying Squirrel, a fascinating edifice of steel, glass and weathered woods. Known as one of Chattanooga’s premier cocktail spots with house-made infused spirits (think smoked peach whiskey) and an extensive beer list, the Squirrel’s food also turns heads with one of the most globally eclectic menus south of the Mason Dixon Line: matzoh ball pho, fried chicken bao buns, Cuban tacos, and a falafel sandwich are a few of the intercontinental comfort food dishes with which to pair with their libations. The bar is 21+ except on Sunday mornings when the whole family is invited to brunch; dishes include 5-Spice French Toast, spicy chicken biscuits and roasted potato hash which you can wash it down with a Sriracha Bloody Mary.

Things to Do Do in Chattanooga besides Chow Chow…

Gnome and fairy sightings are frequent at the delightfully kitschy Rock City located at the top of Lookout Mountain, 6 miles from downtown Chattanooga.  Out of the ground come massive granite formations creating an “Enchanted Trail” through narrow passages and a swinging bridge that culminates at Lover’s Leap (aka the Eagle’s Nest), a dramatic cliff where, on a clear day, you can see 7 states. Be sure to grab an iconic birdhouse from the gift shop.

Having just welcomed their 25-millionth guest, The Tennessee Aquarium has set the standard for a fresh and saltwater aquarium experience for the past 27 years.  The latest buzz comes from the new Island Life exhibit which is scheduled to open March 15 inside the Ocean Journey building.  The new exhibit will include Flashlight Fish, colorful chameleons and a wave machine that will crash against a viewing window where guests can watch the hypnotic cadence of cold-water fish splashing into brightly colored anemones and sea stars. Also, be sure to buy a package that includes one of their jaw-dropping IMAX nature films.  

Perched atop a bluff overlooking the Tennessee River and steps away from the Tennessee Aquarium, Walnut Street Bridge and Hunter Museum of American Art, The Edwin Hotel captures the current local spirit of Chattanooga with the personality and uniqueness of a boutique property but the services of a major chain.  This 90-room stunner boasts luxe rooms that are awash in local art.   For meals hit the White Bird restaurant downstairs and at night at their rooftop bar, Whiskey Thief, which boasts Instagram-worthy views of the Tennessee River and Walnut Street Bridge. â€‹

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Let me know your favorite places to dine and dash off to. I am always looking for inspiration!

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