The Lowcountry in South Carolina marks the gradual transformation of land into sea; a fascinating geological nexus where terra firma gradually devolves into something unstable, its surface beauty concealing a watery mystery below. The city of Charleston, like it’s Lowcountry environs, presents a duality of experiences. Above the surface lies one of the most beloved tourist towns in the world, a city endowed with Instagram-esque beauty and preserved antebellum charm, punctuated by 100+-year-old churches, cobblestone streets, and gas lanterns. But the city is also ballasted by a sense of conflict and mystery, a place where the narrative also includes tales of pirates and persecution, all of it built upon slave labor. A visit to Charleston lays before you an inexhaustible supply of first-rate surface-level tourist experiences but if you are willing to dig a little deeper and go beneath the surface, a whole other world awaits.
1. Touring the town—
a. Above the surface: Before the internal combustion engine, the horsepower around Charleston was provided by, well, horses. That clip-clopping still echoes in the streets, adding a rhythmic soundtrack to the historically preserved homes, churches, and cemeteries. Palmetto Carriage Company offers wooden carriage rides with knowledgeable guides who dispense historical information—some of it candidly controversial—while you saunter through pre-selected 1-hour routes around the historic downtown grid. Tickets: Adults $26, kids under 4-11 $16.
b.Below the surface: For 137 years, the Old City Jail in Charleston caged some of the worst criminals of their day including pirates, Union Army prisoners, and even the alleged first female serial killer, Lavinia Fisher. Now, while the 4-acre parcel awaits its future (developers are salivating to redevelop the parcel into mixed-use mania), Bulldog Tours’ guides lead a haunting nightly tour of the jailhouse sharing both real-life tales of terror (the conditions in the jail were unimaginably inhumane) as well as well as tales of former prisoners’ spirits who allegedly still manifest themselves to the fright of their guests (we did not, however, encounter any ghosts on our particular tour). The 45-minute experiences occur nightly, adults $28, children $18.
- World Class Cuisine—
- Above the surface: The Atlantic ocean’s relationship with the Lowcountry creates a glorious fishing environment and its bounty makes its way quickly from the nets and hooks to your plate. The Hyman family has operated a business in the Hyman Seafood building since the late 1800s and since 1986 they have been serving world-renowned, crowd-pleasing seafood dishes (The Food Network listed it in their Top 5 Seafood category). From Lowcountry boils to build-your-own seafood platters, Hymans serves up the classics from the area stocked with oysters, crab, shrimp and even alligator sausage.
- Below the surface: Under the radar on the Charleston restaurant scene, the micro-kitchen of Zero George Restaurant + Bar, located in the wonderful boutique-chic Zero George Street Hotel, churns out some of the most creative culinary art in the world (among other accolades it made Conde Nast’s “Top 5 Foodie Hotels in the World”). Crispy blowfish tail, liquid center corn tortellini, and a nitro mozzarella balloon are but a few of Chef Vinson Petrillo’s masterpieces. Also seek out (and eat!) an elusive “Royal with Cheese”, a highly coveted burger made by chef Petrillo from Wagyu beef, mushrooms, shaved truffles and Kraft Singles fondue. Chef only makes 5 a night and once they are gone they are gone.
- Civil War History—
- Above the surface: Just over 150 years ago the first shots of the Civil War rang out over Fort Sumter and now you are just a ferry ride away from walking through that historical significance. Board a ship at Liberty Square and sail to the ruins that once guarded Charleston Harbor. While much of the fort was destroyed in the siege, you can still walk around the grounds and touch the 42 pounder smoothbore cannons and 100 pounder Parrott rifles still on their original carriages. Adults $22, children $14.
- (Literally) Below the Surface: In 1864 while the Civil War was raging, the Confederacy launched what would become the world’s first combat submarine which sunk a Union ship and then mysteriously vanished. Over a century later, the H.L. Hunley was raised off the coast of Charleston and now is on display as part of an ongoing restoration project that is as fascinating as the vessel itself. Incomprehensibly primitive by today’s standards but technologically well ahead of its time, the Hunley is a historic, engineering and military marvel that tells an Icarus-like tale of military ambition and the lives it cost. Adults $16, students/youth $8.
4.Beach time—
- Above the surface: If you want to feel your toes in the sand and lap up some poshness, few places are more luxe than the 255-room Sanctuary at Kiawah Island Golf Resort, a 5-star seaside castle where you can live like a Vanderbilt or Carnegie and play some of the finest golf courses in the world. Ride bikes around the island trails, play tennis or let the resort arrange a Lowcountry fishing experience or an expert-led alligator tour. Located 21 miles south of Charleston, Kiawah is an idyllic family retreat. Doubles at The Sanctuary start at $270 per night.
- Below the surface: Perhaps the laidback “yang” to Kiawah Island’s ritzy “yin,” Folly Island lies just south of Charleston, it’s beach known by the locals as “the edge of America,” a nod to its surfer vibe and community pier. A number of bed and breakfasts and small hotels dot the 7-mile island and its sandy beaches. A visit to the pier is essential where they rent fishing gear and bait, a perfect activity for families and kids. In town, visitors and residents zip around on golf carts and devour hyper-fresh seafood in quintessential seafood dives like the Folly Beach Crab Shack.
5.Nature—
a. Far above the surface—until they swoop down from above—the inhabitants of The Center for Birds of Prey, 50 species of birds of prey including eagles, hawks, owls, falcons, kites & vultures, bring you up close and personal with the south’s avian carnivore population. Whether you’re a birder, photographer or just enjoy watching raptors devour small rodents, this a fantastic activity. Besides being entertaining, the center’s The Avian Medical Clinic treats more than 600 injured raptors and shorebirds each year, releasing the majority back to their natural habitat. Adults $18, kids $12
b.Below the surface: Pint-sized overall compared to the Georgia Aquarium, the South Carolina Aquarium documents the Lowcountry animal life in a fascinating way, bringing fresh water, salt water, and brackish dwellers into a neatly organized environment. Home to more than ten thousand plants and animals including North American river otters, loggerhead sea turtles, alligators, bald eagles and sharks, the Aquarium does top Georgia’s in one category: their Great Ocean Tank which owns the title of the deepest tank in North America. Adults $29.95, children $22.95.
