Earlier this past summer my family and I took a trip to Israel
and it was simply magical. We visited
the Wailing Wall, the Dead Sea, the River Jordan, and, naturally, ate a ton
of incredible Israeli dishes--hummus, falafel, shakshuka, wood fire meat, fish and lamb
dishes, Mediterranean-style salads and more. But in Tel Aviv, the largest and most modern Israeli city, many places I
ate had evolved Israeli cuisine beyond the traditional preparations and I ended
up having a couple of the best meals I have had in years.
Now Atlanta gets our own new modern Israeli restaurant, Aziza, just opened in midtown west, literally underneath Ford Fry's Marcel. Enter through a massive wooden door into a sexy space accented with arched entryways, exotic fabrics, and dramatic lighting. A wood-burning oven burns away in the open kitchen, emitting smells and tantalizing smoke that makes you feel like you walked into a bustling hot spot in Tel Aviv.
Executive Chef Brandon Hughes boasts an impressive culinary resume that
includes stints at fine dining stalwarts, Aria and Bacchanalia.
The menu is an homage to owner Tal Baum's Israeli heritage and also
incorporates some elements of Persian, Lebanese, Yemenite and Moroccan
influences. We started with a loaf of
Kubaneh, a Yemenite bread that cooks at a low temperature and then you can pull
it apart with your fingers and devour the soft, croissant-like insides. This might be the best piece of bread I have
ever eaten. We also tried the hummus dishes, watermelon with feta, Octopus
with sunchokes and squid ink tahini, lamb strip with Basmati rice
and Akko prawns on falafel toast. All were gorgeously
plated, explosively flavored and quite unique on the scene.
Also, next door sits their sidekick fast-casual falafel stand, Falafel
Nation, serves up hummus bowls, falafel, sabich (an Israeli eggplant
sandwich), and other vegetarian street food with quick grab-and-go bites during
the day and late-night munchies.
Beyond Aziza, the parent restaurant group, Oliva Restaurant Group, plans further expansion
in Atlanta with the opening of a third concept, Rina, this fall. The Israeli street food
diner will open along the Eastside BeltLine trail in the Ford Factory Lofts,
across from Ponce City Market. Rina will be serving a menu featuring modern
tweaks on personal family recipes, including a falafel recipe from the Baum's
grandmother.
About Oliva
Restaurants: Oliva Restaurant Group is a collection of
restaurants in Atlanta, Georgia owned by restaurateur Tal Postelnik Baum. While
each restaurant concept differs from the other, each Oliva restaurant is
inspired by Baum's own story. Born and raised in Israel with many years spent
in Italy, she found the inspiration for her first Atlanta restaurant, Bellina Alimentari,
an award-winning Italian market and wine bar located in Ponce City Market. The
2018 Restaurateur of the Year Award nominee and Executive Chef Brandon Hughes
will open two new concepts that nod to Baum's Israeli roots - Aziza (opening
July 25) will serve modern Israeli cuisine in a lively and energetic setting at
Westside Provisions District and Rina (opening Fall 2019) will serve casual,
Israel street food at the Ford Factory Lofts. Hughes will bring his culinary
acumen and oversee all three restaurants.
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